On the eastern side of Zambia, this nearly 3,500 square mile park spans the Luangwa Valley. South Luangwa National Park receives less fan-fare than other large parks in Africa, but it’s a well-known destination for dedicated adventurers and safari-goers. It’s appeal among the well-traveled is largely because of its expert guides, diverse wildlife, exceptional walking tours, and uncrowded environment. In fact, Zambia receives less than 1 million tourists each year. As you can probably imagine, that means any given destination isn’t very crowded. South Luangwa National Park is no less majestic and awesome than the larger national parks throughout the continent – so if you want a safari experience where you don’t feel like a cog in a tourist machine, consider Zambia.
What you’ll see
South Luangwa National Park is well-known for its impressive diversity in wildlife. Over 350 bird species, hundreds of mammals including some that can only be found in this particular area, and 4 of the Big 5 game animals can be found in the park.
Thornicroft’s giraffe (also sometimes called Rhodesian giraffes) can only be found in the Luangwa River Valley. They are one of 9 subspecies spread across 21 African countries. Thornicroft’s giraffes are categorized as “vulnerable” because they have a small population and only live in this one region. In fact, the overall giraffe population in Africa is an estimated 110,000 – though this number is steadily decreasing, largely because of poaching.
The one caveat I’ll offer is that if you are set on seeing the Big 5 (lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros) then this might not be your place. There are no rhinos in the park; unfortunately the rhino population was devastated by poaching decades ago. If you are keen to see rhinos in the wild, South Africa’s Kruger National Park might be your destination as South Africa has had massive success in rehabilitation of the white rhinoceros population over the past decades. A century ago, the population was estimated to be as low as 50 and is now estimated to be above 18,000.
The park has a lot of elephants. We came across this family just as we were entering the park. Our guide shut off the engine and we just sat and watched them for a long time because they are incredible… and also because they were very close to the truck, taking their time moving across the road in front of us. I love watching the babies – they seem a bit uncoordinated, flopping their trunks everywhere, flapping their ears and tugging at tree branches they have no hope of breaking off.
We were lucky enough to see lions a few times. Zambia Tourism estimates the country is home to over 1,000 lions, which is small compared to Tanzania’s estimated population of 15,000. The guides have radios so they can communicate sitings to each other, which is just one reason it pays to have a guide for at least part of the time you visit the park.
The lush vegetation makes this park the perfect place for leopards. We were lucky enough to see leopards both nights we were there. The pregnant female in the photo below had dragged her dinner up into a tree to feast. To spot these beauties at night, the guides bring along spotters who oscillate a bright flashlight across the bush. They look for the reflection from the predators’ eyes and they are extremely skilled at spotting two shining eyes from afar.
When to go
The right time to go is whenever you have enough vacation days saved up to make it happen. Zambia has a rainy season and a dry season, each lasting approximately half the year. There are pros and cons of visiting South Luangwa National Park in each season, though dry season is far more popular, because when it comes down to it – less foliage means more animals sightings.
Rainy season
I went during rainy season (Nov – Mar), which is also referred to as “emerald season.” This is the right time to go if you like birds and/or photography. Animals are out and about in full force and roaming throughout the park during rainy season. This season is great because the park is green and lush and absolutely beautiful. The weather tends to be a bit cloudier and overcast, which makes for better lighting than the harsh contrast created by the sun during dry season. This is also the time to go if you want to get better rates and avoid crowds.
The downside of visiting during rainy season (if you haven’t already guessed) is that it’s a bit more difficult to spot animals because there is more greenery to hide them. The weather during this time of year can be very hot and humid, so be prepared.
Dry season
Dry season (Apr – Oct) is the best time to see mammals as they concentrate around watering holes, which makes them easier to track down. The thick foliage thins out during this time of year so it’s easier to spot animals from afar. You will find more lodging options available as it’s high-season for safaris. During dry season there are naturally fewer mosquitos, which lessens the chances of getting malaria.
On the other hand, the sun is very intense so be proactive about avoiding sun burn and dehydration. You will find that lodges and popular routes in the park will be a bit more crowded. This increase in tourist traffic also means that popular viewing spots might be crowded with people.
How to get there
If coming from an international location, you will fly into Zambia’s main international airport in the capital city, Lusaka (LUN). From there, you can take a charter flight to the airport in Mfuwe, which is about 30-minutes from the Park entrance. Transport to and from Mfuwe airport can almost always be arranged through whichever lodge you stay at.
If coming from Lusaka, the round-trip flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe typically runs about $400-$600. If you have the luxury of time and a 4×4, driving is definitely the more budget-friendly option. I was living in Lusaka at the time I visited, so I embarked on the 9-hour road trip from Lusaka with friends. If you go the road trip route – beware, there are a ton of pot holes.
The Park is also accessible via road and charter flight from Livingstone and Chobe National Park. When in doubt regarding directions and road accessibility, call the lodge you plan to stay at – they are veritable experts at helping people navigate to the park.
Entering the Park
Entering the park costs $25 if you are with a guide and $30 to self-drive according to Zambia Tourism, which has updated rates for all of the National Parks in Zambia. Mfuwe is the main park entrance, though there is another called the Chifungwe gate for travelers coming from the north.
The most popular entrance to the park is at Mfuwe where a range of lodging options are situated both outside and inside the park. Many of the lodges provide options to book either an inclusive package or just accommodation. I recommend booking the full-board package, which will ensure you are well-fed and have two scheduled game drives per day on top of lodging. If you go on drive arranged by your lodging they will guide you through the process of paying park entry fees.
Where to stay
South Luangwa National Park has a variety of lodges inside and just outside the park’s main entrance. Lodging inside the park tends to cost a bit more. We actually found that, even outside the park, we were still surrounded by elephants and had hippos wandering through our camp. Most lodges don’t include the price of park entrance or associated taxes, so be sure to either read the website carefully or just ask the lodge staff if you are trying to stick to a budget. It is very important to call ahead if you plan to visit during rainy season as you’ll want to make sure the lodge operates during the wet months. Some lodges are seasonal as a result of lower tourist traffic.
On a budget
I stayed at Marula Lodge and despite it being New Years, the lodge wasn’t crowded. This is definitely the place to stay if you are there for a great wildlife experience and not really interested in paying for spa services and a gym. The backpacker dorms cost $120 full board for 2 nights and 2 game drives and they have chalet and individual room options starting around $210.
A little bit of luxury
If you do want a little extra luxury, or you want to stay inside the park, there are a few great options.
If you’d like to sleep in a chalet with air conditioning at a lodge committed to sustainability where elephants regularly wander through the lobby – check out Mfuwe Lodge. The lodge is run by The Bushcamp Company and is one of seven lodges, each having its own unique feel. One of their camps, Chamilandu, has strong tree house vibes where you sleep in stilted chalets, and another, Chindeni, offers the ultimate glamping experience where guests sleep in opulent tents.
Somewhere in between
If you’re looking for something in between the basics of Marula and the luxury of the Bushcamps, check out Thornicroft Lodge. For just under $400 you’ll enjoy full-board for 2 nights in a chalet with 2 game drives.
